Lucile Dress Mock-Up

I have attempted draping my first pattern! and the Lucile Dress is slowly coming along.

Via

Besides figuring out a pattern for the bodice I've been trying to figure out how to attach the many different layers of the skirt. I've pinned some different layers and have come up with a plan.

Grey Fabric is just for the mock-up

I will attach the the white silk outer skirt to the bodice because that obviously looks attached. Then dealing with the three layers under that which look like a white scalloped skirt with a lace skirt over that has some kind of boning run through it's middle and then a lace sheer panel/apron that is on top in the immediate front. I considered attaching the lace apron to the bodice also but instead I'll attach it to what I am calling the petticoat now.

So I will start with a white cotton scalloped petticoat. On top of that will be the sheer layer with boning through it's middle. I want to do some kind of lace design like they have on it. I think I will attach it near the top of the petticoat but not too the waistband because my other concern is the waistband getting too bulky. Finally the apron will be attached. With the apron I am still not sure how I will attach it yet.

My design plan for this petticoat (apron not here). I tried to show it flat and then gathered into the skirt.

1916 dress inspired by the 18th century

I recently saw a picture of this 1916 lucile wedding dress and fell in love with it. I found more detailed pictures of it on the digital collection of the Chicago History Museum website.

Via

I have absolutely no reason to make this dress and it would be a little ridiculous to spend time making this. BUT I do happen to have lots of a white silky blend fabric left over from my graduation dress I made two years ago and I've never had anything to do with it... and well I'll just use the need for practicing pattern drafting as an excuse to be making a random 1916 wedding gown. 

The only thing I think I would change on this dress is the sleeves, possibly make them longer and definitely get rid of the netted undersleeves. I do love the trim though. I think the hardest thing for me would be the way the skirt is attached to the bodice, I'm not sure I like how it looks up close. 

I'm really glad this Chicago Museum's photo allow you to zoom in so closely and see the details it will be a huge help in constructing this!

Starting the 18th century

It's been one of my goals for a while to work on sewing for the 18th century since I live in Texas the only opportunities I've had are mostly for 1840-1860 reenacting.  I finally decided to go ahead and just do it.
I'm starting from the inside to out, so with the shift first.

I've found some great websites for just starting out  here's one, and  this one here! I used both of them to create my pattern. I've also been handsewing all of it, I want it to be as authentic as possible!

So far I've got one sleeve and almost the side done. It's not that its so very time consuming, but I really only get a bit of time on the weekends or when I happen to be watching a show on tv to work on it. Taking 18 hours of school and a teaching job has been taking all my time!

Along with that, I actually have started back up working on a dress I'm making from a homemade pattern that I think is somewhere in the 1910's or 1920's. I got stuck on how to make the closing for it but I've been studying some examples from the 20's. 

I used a fagoting stitch by hand on the bottom of one of the skirt pieces. The pattern I got at a garage sale and it was with another homemade pattern for an envelope chemise, my plan is to make the chemise in a blue that will show through the white of this dress. Hopefully when it's completed if I put it together right it will be easier to date the pattern. 

Both are slow in coming since I'm sewing them by hand, but progress is being made! 

Tomorrow I start up my volunteering again at the local historical village by me and while I can just squeeze into the dresses I've had forever, I desperately need a new one and new 1860 underthings. Mine are ripping apart! So that will need to be squeezed in and soon! 

P.S.  I haven't left my vintage patterns behind! I've been ordering quite a lot while I've been idle and I'm anxious to start sewing those too! 

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