Costume Closeup Jacket #2

Costume Closeup Jacket #2

First time wearing my American Duchess shoes!

Details:

Pattern: Costume Closeup Jacket with modifications mostly to the front to make it rounded and meet and close with pins, instead of using a stomacher.

Year: 1780s

Fabric: Blue cotton print with a cotton lining, both from fabric stash

Accuracy: Entirely hand sewn with period stitches but would probably need a linen lining to be really accurate

I took more pictures than this, but somehow no one caught that my skirt in the back was caught up and the under petticoat is showing, so I've only got front pictures to show right now :(

I started this and mostly finished it back in December but as usual got stuck on the sleeves. I wanted the style sleeve with the little elbow area that is in the original costume closeup pattern but no matter how I tried I couldn't enlarge it correctly to fit me. Finally, this tutorial at At the Sign of the Golden Scissors saved me!!  I think I could perfect the sleeve fit on me a little more, but at least it actually fits me well this time around!

I don't like that the front is not very flat and wrinkles in places, I wonder if it would be accurate to place boning in a jacket front? I know there's example in dresses.

HSF Challenge 16: Separates

I did finally finish the 18th century stays a week or two ago except for hand stitching the eyelets... which I keep putting off..  More importantly I finally finished my first completely hand stitched 18th century garment!

I just had a week vacation and I brought my sewing along with me and was able to finish completely the Costume Closeup jacket and I'm using it for the Historical Sew Fortnightly.

Instead of making eyelets to lace the front (I really really don't like to sew eyelets) I left it plain just to be pinned onto the stomacher I'll make for it soon.

I do have a shift but didn't have it with me for pictures

Fit: After making this, I'm not sure if the fit is wrong on the jacket or if my stays don't fit right. When I made the stays I thought the shoulder straps were already too far over but with this jacket they need to be further. I also wonder if maybe the jacket needs to be longer. I thought I was pretty short waisted but now I wonder if I'm not.  One of the sleeves is put in wrong, but I'll do it right next time I make this.  Finally I think the neckline is wrong... I think it should reach to the top of the stays? Once again I'm not sure about this either. 

I also have enough of the fabric to make a petticoat and am thinking of doing that but before that I need to make a bum-rump so that the length for the petticoat will be correct.

The Challenge: Challenge 16 Separates 

Fabric: Red and cream cotton print with a white cotton lining. The red and white design seem to me like they could possibly be similar to an 18th century pattern but I'm not sure 

Pattern: Costume Closeup Jacket

Year: 18th Century 

Notions: Thread

How historically accurate is it? Completely hand sewn with period techniques but the fabric isn't very accurate I don't think. 

Hours to complete: A whole week of sewing in my spare time

First worn: for pictures

Total cost: $0  lining fabric was in my stash and the red and cream was taken from one of my very earliest, very inaccurate civil war dresses.