Changing up my Stays

Not too long ago, I made my blue stays. They aren't super well stitched or anything but they worked. The only problem was it was a huge pain getting into them and no matter how I tried to teach everyone around me they couldn't get how to lace them up.

I was actually planning on redrafting my pattern so that it laced in the front and had a stomacher but I just don't have the time to be making a whole new pair of stays in a hurry right now. Plus the blue stays fit pretty well but would benefit from losing a few inches, so I cut them right up the front and took out some of the front boning and put lacing holes instead.  I almost didn't post about them because they're starting to look like a hodgepodge of different materials and whatnot but the one thing I've learned in historical sewing is when your researching something every little blog post someone writes is helpful in learning how to make it!

I've been so busy lately I've only had time to do a little bit of searching but I really didn't see any with front lacing like mine.  I know some front lacing is sewn about half way up and then the lacing begins and I may try to do that still, but I like being able to easily get in and out.

I did order lots of lots of cotton and linen tape from Burnley and Trowbridge recently though! I needed it for my petticoat ties, but I ordered some that was too small but turned out perfect for lacing it up, not to mention looks a lot better than the ribbon I was using before.

Side-note: I am very undecided about shoulder straps on stays... before I made stays I loved how they looked and now they're a huge nuisance because they continually peek out from my outfits. I've been trying to decide if next pair I should make them with smaller shoulder straps or do a strapless pair. I feel like stays have been the most confusing thing for me and I just don't know why! If they are strapless, could they still lace up the front?

I know that I didn't lace it up correctly, but I've kind of given up on this pair looking perfect. BUT I am excited because since this pair works for right now I can slowly start working on a new pair that will be perfect and hand-stitched since I know the pattern will work!

On me, it should lace completely closed

Stays Part II

Here is my second attempt at 18th century stays. I changed patterns and I actually got a much better fit than before! Next time though a front lacing one for sure... I dread putting this on because the back lacing is a pain! It could be made a little smaller too since it laces completely closed.  

I also did half-boned stays instead of fully boned only because the pattern was for half boned stays. 

They still need the eyelets finished but I feel like I may get fed up and want to make another front lacing pair soon so I'm hesitant to take the time to do all the eyelets.  I have it laced with a ribbon since that's what I have on hand at the moment. 

Pattern: Ralph Pink 18th Century Stays

Accuracy: the pattern is accurate but it's all machine sewn.  I won't hand sew a pair of stays till I have a pattern that fits perfectly! Fabric probably isn't accurate. I love paying attention to accuracy but always getting accurate fabrics can get expensive so I'm satisfied if I can just make it in a historically accurate way. 

Time: a good week of sewing all the time

Fabric: all of it came from my stash. I don't know what the blue is, it may be linen. The inside layer is some cotton I had on hand. and light blue cotton binding I had on hand. 

P.S. the 1860 sheer is on it's way!! I just can't decide between design ideas!

18th Century Stays

This weekend I finished up my first pair of stays, well there's a couple eyelets left to sew but ill get to those when I get some free time throughout the week.  I've definitely learned a lot sewing these, and while I like them a lot I'm concerned about the fit. I may need to take them apart somehow and make them smaller if that's possible... or I may just need to make another pair.


I gave it somewhat generous seam allowance and I think in the end just a few centimeters here and there snuck in.  It took a long time, I only remembered to keep track of the time for some part of it but marking all the channels, sewing up all the channels, cutting the cable ties took about 5 or 6 hours. Sewing on the binding took forever also and I have a lot of sore fingers from stabbing myself so many times.  On a side note those erasable pens were great for this project! Marking the channels and everything else and then after I just ironed them right off!

It does fit in a way... but it closes completely in the back and the bust doesn't fit like it should. Im assuming the bust doesn't fit because there isn't enough pressure pulling from the back.  But it also may just be cut too high up, at least it looks like it may be in the side picture. The good thing is I think this pattern is great! It probably just needs to be sized down a little bit. Also, I really love the crispness of the white and blue together. Originally I was going to bind the stays in this light blue but I didn't have enough of it and I really do like this bright blue.

Materials: white cotton outside, tan cotton lining, some stiff white lining found in stash. All fabric material I had on hand so nothing new.  Cable ties from home depot.

Time Spent: 10 + hours

Pattern: drafted from Period Costume for Stage & Screen by Jean Hunnisett. Pg. 135. While this book is meant for stage costumes, it still contains a lot of information that is historically accurate and in places where she says to put elastics such as where the shoulder piece connects to the front, obviously you would just do it without. Her patterns are from real historical pieces though, so I do feel the pattern is pretty accurate.

Time Period: I was aiming for the 1780's... and I think this fits that time? I've been researching stays of different decades so I'm still trying to learn what the difference is between like stays from 1760 and twenty years later in 1780.

Construction Details: I really truly meant to hand sew this thing but I'm actually really glad I didn't now. Since these are my first pair of stays I knew something could go wrong in the fit, so I decided to sew as much as I could by machine figuring once I had a pattern that fits great then I'll put a lot more effort and time into it. There is still a considerable amount of hand sewing in this but all the channels were done by machine.
I did make a long rectangular panel that I placed horizontal ties to go across the front of the stays to give it more shape (though I forgot to take a picture). I stitched this in between the tan cotton lining (unseen) and the white lining.

Change for next time: I found out later that supposedly there are more heavy duty cable ties. When I got mine I just looked for the longest one with the most in the pack, I didn't consider some may be stronger than others.  Take away more seam allowance, size down a bit. Take better in progress shots!