Future 18th Century Plans

A post just to keep me on track on what I'm using what fabric for and what I still plan to make

Cotton Blue Robe a L'anglaise
This one is in progress right now! yay! I made the lining yesterday and hope to start sewing with the actual fabric tonight or tomorrow!
Also two petticoats for this dress, one matching the fabric and then a solid blue one.


Blue striped linen 18th century dress, no plans yet as to what style but a plain basic one
Need to order the fabric online, I like this light blue and this striped blue from Burnley and Trowbridge


Cranberry colored Taffeta dress
with gauze on the sleeves similar to this one from Patterns of Fashion. I think that I may want a solid petticoat of a different color (possibly quilted?) and one of the same color for this.

Random Extra Items

pockets, sleeve ruffles, finish cap, neck- handkerchief(?) 

Changing up my Stays

Not too long ago, I made my blue stays. They aren't super well stitched or anything but they worked. The only problem was it was a huge pain getting into them and no matter how I tried to teach everyone around me they couldn't get how to lace them up.

I was actually planning on redrafting my pattern so that it laced in the front and had a stomacher but I just don't have the time to be making a whole new pair of stays in a hurry right now. Plus the blue stays fit pretty well but would benefit from losing a few inches, so I cut them right up the front and took out some of the front boning and put lacing holes instead.  I almost didn't post about them because they're starting to look like a hodgepodge of different materials and whatnot but the one thing I've learned in historical sewing is when your researching something every little blog post someone writes is helpful in learning how to make it!

I've been so busy lately I've only had time to do a little bit of searching but I really didn't see any with front lacing like mine.  I know some front lacing is sewn about half way up and then the lacing begins and I may try to do that still, but I like being able to easily get in and out.

I did order lots of lots of cotton and linen tape from Burnley and Trowbridge recently though! I needed it for my petticoat ties, but I ordered some that was too small but turned out perfect for lacing it up, not to mention looks a lot better than the ribbon I was using before.

Side-note: I am very undecided about shoulder straps on stays... before I made stays I loved how they looked and now they're a huge nuisance because they continually peek out from my outfits. I've been trying to decide if next pair I should make them with smaller shoulder straps or do a strapless pair. I feel like stays have been the most confusing thing for me and I just don't know why! If they are strapless, could they still lace up the front?

I know that I didn't lace it up correctly, but I've kind of given up on this pair looking perfect. BUT I am excited because since this pair works for right now I can slowly start working on a new pair that will be perfect and hand-stitched since I know the pattern will work!

On me, it should lace completely closed

Friday Updates #6

The last two weeks have been SO crazy with school midterms and papers and everything. I wasn't really able to get much done, hence no Friday updates. This week I finally started doing a little here and there so I have things to update on!

1.

I finally picked up the cap and started it, and even though it's all hand sewn once you actually sit down and start working on it it comes together pretty quickly. This isn't done yet, still edges to be sewn and a ruffle for the front! 

2.

The entire short gown and skirt are done!! Hopefully I'll get pictures up and a post about its construction this weekend! Not the most flattering gown though....

3.

and... as usual the never-ending quilted satin comforter. I think I'm in my third month on this one and there is still so much left on it! I admit though I'm not very concentrated on it, just doing little bits at a time! 

I know I've been planning a sheer 1860 dress for forever, and I actually have yards and yards of fabric for it, but lately I have just loved sewing 18th century! I literally can't stop, I'm already trying to think of the next 18th century dress I'll make. I started historical sewing with the 1860's but I actually think I enjoy sewing 18th century clothing so much more. Not to say that I won't go back to the 1860's or another time era but not till I'm out of this 1780 mood! 

Friday Update #5

1.

Finally finished sewing and took pictures of my red and white 18th century outfit. It has a petticoat, stomacher, and jacket. Post about it here. 

2. 

Made a pattern for a short gown! 

3. 

One side seam, sleeve hem and bottom hem left till it's finished! 

4. 

Finally found a pattern I liked for an 18th century cap. No pictures because I've barely started on it but it is cut out and started! 

5. 

Another Wiksten tank done. post here. 

Another Wiksten Tank

A while back I made two Wiksten tanks and have loved them!! You can see them here. I wear them all the time so when I found some super soft cotton fabric I knew it would be perfect for another tank! 

It's simple and fast so it's great to sew up in between working on other sewing projects! 

I actually accidentally sewed the two main pieces with the wrong side facing out, but with french seams in them I didn't want to take time to undo it. So I put the pocket right side out and I think it looks like it was meant to be that way, maybe! 

I sewed this up in a cotton but I did try one before in a stiffer quilting cotton and it didn't come out well. This tank is definitely meant for more drapey fabrics. 

18th Century Underthings

While taking pictures of the red dress, I finally got pictures of the rump padding I made. Plus, I just got around to putting the ties on it right before I took the pictures. 

Fabric: White cotton and some kind of stuffing I had on hand

Pattern: made my own based off of posts on The Dreamstress and Demode

Year: 18th century

Accuracy: I didn't hand sew the channels, because I wasn't sure if the size would work or fit me. I did sew it closed by hand with a whipstitch though. 

Here it is under the petticoat

HSF: #18

HSF: #18, Re-make, Re-use, and Re-Fashion

This used to be a civil war dress I got a long time ago when I was interested in historical clothing but not sewing it yet. I wish I had taken a picture before I cut it to see how horribly inaccurate it was, but to get an idea, what I have left is the ruffle elastic neckline/sleeve thing that is off the shoulder.  I googled 'civil war dress' to try to find one that looked like it and couldn't find any that bad! Adding 'costume' found one though...

So that's an idea of what I started with. I actually used the same fabric to make a jacket for the HSF challenge Separates a few weeks back. For this challenge I used the remaining fabric to make an 18th century petticoat and matching stomacher. 

I'm not sure if I love the rounded stomacher, I think next time I'll try a pointed one and I think I want to try boning it next time so it has just a little more support to it. Also I got stingy on the fabric, cut the stomacher off center and refused to let myself take anymore from the skirt ( which of course I should have just re-made it, I ended up with more than enough from the skirt... oh well)

HSF #18

The Challenge: Re-make, Re-use, Re-Fashion

Fabric: Red and white cotton print

Pattern: none. I used these tutorials from here and here and here and here and there's even more out there. 

Year: 18th century. I'm trying more for around 1780

Notions: Thread 

How historically accurate is it? The stomacher was hand sewn and then I got lazy on the petticoat and machine sewed it because I didn't have much free time to work on it. 

Hours to complete: Not long, I did them both on different days though.

First worn: For pictures

Total cost: $0 

And now... here's the full outfit put together finally!

and a bonus cat picture. I tried to get a cute picture, he wasn't having it...