Saturday, August 3, 2013

HSF Challenge 16: Separates

I did finally finish the 18th century stays a week or two ago except for hand stitching the eyelets... which I keep putting off..  More importantly I finally finished my first completely hand stitched 18th century garment!

I just had a week vacation and I brought my sewing along with me and was able to finish completely the Costume Closeup jacket and I'm using it for the Historical Sew Fortnightly.

Instead of making eyelets to lace the front (I really really don't like to sew eyelets) I left it plain just to be pinned onto the stomacher I'll make for it soon.

I do have a shift but didn't have it with me for pictures

Fit: After making this, I'm not sure if the fit is wrong on the jacket or if my stays don't fit right. When I made the stays I thought the shoulder straps were already too far over but with this jacket they need to be further. I also wonder if maybe the jacket needs to be longer. I thought I was pretty short waisted but now I wonder if I'm not.  One of the sleeves is put in wrong, but I'll do it right next time I make this.  Finally I think the neckline is wrong... I think it should reach to the top of the stays? Once again I'm not sure about this either. 

I also have enough of the fabric to make a petticoat and am thinking of doing that but before that I need to make a bum-rump so that the length for the petticoat will be correct.

The Challenge: Challenge 16 Separates 
Fabric: Red and cream cotton print with a white cotton lining. The red and white design seem to me like they could possibly be similar to an 18th century pattern but I'm not sure 
Pattern: Costume Closeup Jacket
Year: 18th Century 
Notions: Thread
How historically accurate is it? Completely hand sewn with period techniques but the fabric isn't very accurate I don't think. 
Hours to complete: A whole week of sewing in my spare time
First worn: for pictures
Total cost: $0  lining fabric was in my stash and the red and cream was taken from one of my very earliest, very inaccurate civil war dresses. 


  1. Your jacket is very pretty! And kudos for hand sewing it - I love 18thc construction techniques, they really make it easier to put together a garment.

    And the fit looks fine to me - my stay straps are always coming out of my necklines, too. I figure that's what a fichu is for! ;)

    1. I'm pretty new to 18th century sewing but I loved sewing this by hand with 18th century techniques! They made it a lot easier than I thought it would be and looked nice.

      Thank you! It's good to hear the fit looks good to someone else! A fichu's on my list to make, but other projects tend to jump ahead of it.. someday it will happen though!