Friday, August 23, 2013

Friday Updates #3

I spent most of the week working more on the quilt comforter but progress on that has been pretty slow too but I did find some great things for future sewing projects!


I finished up the bum pad thing though I feel like it's a bit too big. I don't have a real petticoat over it it's a sheer skirt leftover from a picked apart dress but it gives a kind of 18th century look and I was able to color over it to see what the jacket would look like with a red skirt! Anyways I'm considering making a smaller one.... 

The quilt doesn't look like much yet but hopefully it will look a lot better when it's done.

I went antiquing today and got some cute cat days of the week transfers for towels, a magazine from February 1917, The New Encyclopedia of Modern Sewing, and ton of pinkish red Taffeta( for $10!!!, definitely my most exciting find). I'm pretty sure Im going to use the taffeta for an 18th century gown since there's so much of it!  

Saturday, August 17, 2013


18th Century Stomacher

Pattern: none, but used the one in Patterns of Fashion as reference

Fabric: cotton top fabric and cotton bottom

Time: an hour or less when I actually sat down to make it

Year: 18th century

Cost: nothing, all fabric from stash

Stiches used: le point a rabattre sous la main

Things to change: I may add some kind of trim to it but I'm only going to use it with this jacket  and trim may overwhelm it I think.

Friday, August 16, 2013

Friday Update #2

This week has been pretty uneventful sewing wise, but yesterday and today I've managed to work on a couple of things though I haven't finished anything. 

I finally started my 1780's padding/ butt thing/ Bum - Rump (I'm not sure what the real name is). I'm hoping that it will help the tails of my 18th century jacket stand out more. I need to get more stuffing and hopefully I'll finish this up tonight.

The stomacher for my jacket I should have done like two weeks ago. It's not done, it needs to be sewn to the lining but I'm saving that for when I babysit tonight. It's off center but I didn't want to use up too much of the fabric because I want enough for a petticoat. The more I look at it, the more it bugs me... oh well... 

I also started my 1940 quilted satin comforter! It took me a while this week to pick a fabric and copy the design onto paper and get it all set up but it's finally ready to be quilted! I've only hand- quilted two leaves though.. this project is going to be a long one. 

Friday, August 9, 2013

Where I'm at Friday #1

So I thought I'd start a new thing "Where I'm at Friday" so when I don't have a finished project to post about I can at least stay updated with how my current projects are going! So here we go..

1. Started to work on making an 18th century cap. I only had sketches online of the shape the pattern pieces should be so it ended up the size of a baby's cap. But my pattern worked out so now I've just got to make it bigger and try again before actually hand sewing it and using my good fabric!

2. I haven't talked about my bedroom plans in a while. I've got half of my curtains up but still need to finish them! I've also finally decided on making up this bedspread in the same blue satiny fabric I made my quilted wedge pillow a while back. I'm going to make a bedskirt and shams and things to go with it. 

3. Added another magazine to my collection this week! I love the dress on the front, I'm thinking of making this, I already have a pattern with a back very similar! 

4. I finally picked this as my inspiration for my 1860 sheer! With blue ribbons instead of pink! 

Sunday, August 4, 2013

Stays Part II

Here is my second attempt at 18th century stays. I changed patterns and I actually got a much better fit than before! Next time though a front lacing one for sure... I dread putting this on because the back lacing is a pain! It could be made a little smaller too since it laces completely closed.  

I also did half-boned stays instead of fully boned only because the pattern was for half boned stays. 

They still need the eyelets finished but I feel like I may get fed up and want to make another front lacing pair soon so I'm hesitant to take the time to do all the eyelets.  I have it laced with a ribbon since that's what I have on hand at the moment. 

Pattern: Ralph Pink 18th Century Stays

Accuracy: the pattern is accurate but it's all machine sewn.  I won't hand sew a pair of stays till I have a pattern that fits perfectly! Fabric probably isn't accurate. I love paying attention to accuracy but always getting accurate fabrics can get expensive so I'm satisfied if I can just make it in a historically accurate way. 

Time: a good week of sewing all the time

Fabric: all of it came from my stash. I don't know what the blue is, it may be linen. The inside layer is some cotton I had on hand. and light blue cotton binding I had on hand. 

P.S. the 1860 sheer is on it's way!! I just can't decide between design ideas!

Saturday, August 3, 2013

HSF Challenge 16: Separates

I did finally finish the 18th century stays a week or two ago except for hand stitching the eyelets... which I keep putting off..  More importantly I finally finished my first completely hand stitched 18th century garment!

I just had a week vacation and I brought my sewing along with me and was able to finish completely the Costume Closeup jacket and I'm using it for the Historical Sew Fortnightly.

Instead of making eyelets to lace the front (I really really don't like to sew eyelets) I left it plain just to be pinned onto the stomacher I'll make for it soon.

I do have a shift but didn't have it with me for pictures

Fit: After making this, I'm not sure if the fit is wrong on the jacket or if my stays don't fit right. When I made the stays I thought the shoulder straps were already too far over but with this jacket they need to be further. I also wonder if maybe the jacket needs to be longer. I thought I was pretty short waisted but now I wonder if I'm not.  One of the sleeves is put in wrong, but I'll do it right next time I make this.  Finally I think the neckline is wrong... I think it should reach to the top of the stays? Once again I'm not sure about this either. 

I also have enough of the fabric to make a petticoat and am thinking of doing that but before that I need to make a bum-rump so that the length for the petticoat will be correct.

The Challenge: Challenge 16 Separates 
Fabric: Red and cream cotton print with a white cotton lining. The red and white design seem to me like they could possibly be similar to an 18th century pattern but I'm not sure 
Pattern: Costume Closeup Jacket
Year: 18th Century 
Notions: Thread
How historically accurate is it? Completely hand sewn with period techniques but the fabric isn't very accurate I don't think. 
Hours to complete: A whole week of sewing in my spare time
First worn: for pictures
Total cost: $0  lining fabric was in my stash and the red and cream was taken from one of my very earliest, very inaccurate civil war dresses.